3 Random Photos

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The Last Picture Show

The world turns. Times change. Eras come to an end.

The start of a new year often invites change. There’s a feeling of out with the old and in with the new. Resolutions compete with each other and fight for survival during the first few weeks of January and a resolution that lives on to February is a rare thing indeed.

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I took the photo above in a bar in Campli (TE). I was trying to capture the subdued yet cosy nature of the interior while also showing the “ghosts” that regularly visit for refreshment and conversation.

I took the original with my Canon 400D, f/8 and an exposure time of 3.2 seconds.

This image is likely to be the last photo I’ll take in Abruzzo with that camera.

It’s the end of an era.

I’ve had it for 5 years but in a fit of enthusiasm and an eye for a bargain I’ve bought myself a newer model, a Canon 600D (or Rebel T3i if you’re US based). The new kid on the block has bells, whistles and no shortage of thingamajigs to assist me in taking the photo I can see with my eyes and hope to faithfully reproduce in a photograph.

There’ll be a period of transition of course. A time when the 600D will cause frustration and I’ll rue the day I made the switch; but I’m confident I’ll get to grips with it and before long it will become a good friend.

This blog has around 1,200 photos scattered through it and at least 90% of them were taken with the 400D. That’s only a drop in the ocean of all the images it’s helped me create, some of which have won prizes! :-)

To pay appropriate homage I’ve modified the first verse of My Beloved Monster, a song by Eels, to give you this

My beloved camera and me
We went everywhere together
Capturing Abruzzo’s mountains and seas
As we embraced all kinds of weather

A bit silly I know but if you want to hear the original by Mark Everett (Eels) play the clip below.

Sometime in February I’m going to put my trusty Canon 400D up for sale. The package will include the camera along with quite a few extra goodies I’ve picked up that are not compatible with the new model. If you are interest drop me a note (I won’t publish as a comment) and when I’m ready I’ll let you know what the entire package contains and what I’m looking for. It’s a great camera and would suit anybody wanting to exercise their creativity. I won’t be selling it directly though this site.

That’s it, out with the old and in with the new!

Enjoy the song. I do like Eels.

28 Steps to Forgiveness in Campli, Teramo

I should have written about our trip to Campli (TE) weeks ago, but I didn’t. I was a little bit busy and other worthy distractions got my attention instead.

But today I was reminded of our trip and I felt I had to write about it before the day reached its close.

Did you know that today is the shortest day of the year!

“But don’t all days last 24 hours?” I hear you ask.

OK, you’re right, I’ll rephrase.

Today is the day that has the least amount of daylight hours for locations in the northern hemisphere.

That sounds a bit complicated so I’m going to stick with “today is the shortest day of the year”.

What has that got to do with Campli? Well this is how thoughts of that Teramo town lodged themselves in my head today…

Around this time of year, the time of the winter solstice, a very special location in Ireland gets quite a bit of media attention. In Newgrange, County Meath, during the winter solstice period, light from the rising sun enters an ancient tomb and for about 20 minutes the inner chamber is illuminated. Remarkable – especially since this burial chamber was built 500 years before the Great Pyramids and more than 1,000 years before Stonehenge.

Newgrange dates from the Neolithic period, around 5,000 years ago and although there’s almost 2,000 years separating them, I remembered being in Campli’s Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo, reading about the Necropolis of Campovalano, a burial site of 600 tombs from the Bronze Age.

The curator of the museum enthusiastically explained to us the history of the artefacts on display and pointed at illustration of burial chambers around Europe to help illustrate the significance of the Necropolis. One of the examples illustrated was an Irish burial site, similar to Newgrange, in nearby Tara.

So that’s how thinking about the shortest day of the year brought me back to Campli. Funny how my brain works

I should say that when we left to explore a few towns in the Teramo province Campli wasn’t on the list. A happy coincidence of spending more time than expected in one location meant we hadn’t enough time to follow our planned itinerary. Looking at a map we thought Campli was a good option even though we had never heard of it and had no idea what to expect.

It turned out that Campli was a great option and it has a lot to offer; here’s a list:

Considering I’ve spent a bit of this post talking about burial chambers you might think that the Necropolis and its history was the highlight of our visit to Campli.

Not so, it was actually the 28 steps of the holy staircase that fascinated me the most.

The Holy Stairs (La Scala Santa) exist thanks to Pope Clemente XIV (1772) and consist of 28 wooden steps that must be climbed on one’s knees while praying, in order to receive absolution from sins. This sanctuary has great religious and artistic value with images by Vincenzo Baldati painted on the side walls of the two sets of stairs helping the penitent to reflect on the Passion, Death and Resurrection of Christ.

After visiting I read that at the top of the staircase there is a grating that leads to the Sancta Sanctorum, the true heart of the sanctuary where inside are preserved some fragments of Christ’s Cross.

Apart from the Holy Stairs the Casa del Medico also grabbed my attention. I loved this 15th century house with a well preserved open courtyard, vaulted ceilings, stone staircases and multiple arches.

After walking around the town we dropped into a local bar for refreshment. While eating slices of pizza we chatted away with the bar owners and its customers. Everybody was friendly and curious about what brought us to Campli. As we told our story one slightly merry customer insisted on buying drinks. The timing of his offer wasn’t good for me but he wouldn’t take no for an answer. Eventually he let me off the hook when I told him the little white lie that I was on antibiotics. I figured I wouldn’t go to hell for my fib as I’d already been up the holy staircase.

Stop The Press – I’ve Been Published in Italian!

Yes it’s true, an article I wrote has appeared in an Abruzzo magazine called LACERBA.

LACERBA publishes 8 editions a year and covers all things political, cultural and sport related in the Vestina area of Abruzzo. Vestina (the lands of the ancient Vestini tribe) takes in Penne, Loreto Aprutino, Pianella, Collecorvino and Civitella Casanova.

If you’re interested in reading the article you can find it on page 14 of edition number 7, 2011 entitled C’E UNA LORETO ANCHE A DUBLINO.

So how did this happen?

Earlier this year, Gianfranco Bucella of LACERBA asked me if I would be interested in writing something for their magazine. I was delighted to have been asked and immediately said yes. He said he was hoping that I could give an outsiders view on Abruzzo and Loreto Aprutino perhaps covering what I liked, what drew us to the region and also covering the differences between life in Ireland and life in Abruzzo. He was particularly clear that he also wanted me to highlight the things I don’t like about Abruzzo and would love to see change.

This seemed like a lot of writing and considering the article was going to be no more than 1,000 words I figured I couldn’t possibly cover everything asked for.

And did I mention it had to be in Italian!

I’ve been working on my Italian informally for a few years now and this year I realised that I had to go back to school. This has proved to be a great decision and I’ve noticed my ability to understand and be understood has become a lot better. But to write 1,000 words in Italian that is going to be read by other Italians – that was a bit scary.

I needed a plan, not much of a plan, but a plan all the same.

I decided I’d write an article about what attracted us to Abruzzo and the advice I’d give to somebody who wanted to fit in and become part of the community. My approach was influenced by the thought that I’d probably have better chance of being asked to write more pieces if I leave any strong criticisms out of my first effort.

The next thing I did was a bit of a cheat. I used Google Translate to help with the Italian. I know Google Translate doesn’t give perfect translations but I found that with my knowledge of Italian, however limited, and some restructuring of the original English (making sure I didn’t drop any use of the word “that” and using unambiguous word ordering) I had a piece that captured the sense of what I wanted to say.

Finally a translator from LACERBA stepped in and tidied up my Italian based on the Italian and English I provided.

It was a good bit of work for 1,000 words but it was worth it.

To appear in print, to write in Italian – and today I received an email asking for more articles!

I’m thrilled to bits.

Below is the English version (without the restructuring) of the piece I wrote. I hope you like it.

If you fancy seeing how good and how not so good Google Translate is, copy the Italian version from LACERBA and see the result. I think he overall theme holds up but some of the detail is lost.

How would I describe Loreto Aprutino?

What would I say to somebody who arrives for the first time?

I started thinking about these questions a few days ago because I received a surprise telephone call from Loreto. It was from John (English), who like us (Irish), tries to spend as much time as possible in Abruzzo. He said that he had met a couple (American) who have bought a house in Loreto Aprutino and that they were readers of my blog About Abruzzo (http://aboutabruzzo.com/).

I was delighted to hear from John and also to learn that not only has somebody new been reading what I write about Abruzzo but also that they liked what they read so much they decided to explore the region in more detail and decided to buy a place in Loreto Aprutino.

Then I started to think about what brought Paula and me to Loreto, how thrilled we are every time we return, how wonderful it is to be able to walk to Piazza Garibaldi and on the way meet friends who seem pleased to see us back and greet us with a kiss, a hug and all the latest news.

Abruzzo has a lot to offer so it’s difficult to pick one thing above another. I could talk about the mountains, the sea, the food, and the weather – all important ingredients that make Abruzzo wonderful.  But if I had to select the best thing about Abruzzo and Loreto Aprutino in particular then I’d have to choose the people. I like to think in some small way my attitude to life has been influenced by the Loretese for the better. That’s something precious I try not to lose during the months I’m away.

So the best advice I could give to anybody arriving in Loreto is that they get to know the people who live here. Without connecting with the Loretese you will never be able to experience the best facet of the town.

You don’t have to do much to make this happen. You have the advantage of being in Loreto Aprutino, a town where people’s natural openness and curiosity will ensure that if you are willing to make a small effort, you’ll receive a warm welcome.

But you do have to make a little effort.

First learn some Italian. Being fluent would be fantastic but if you are like me you’ll always be struggling trying to improve your command of the language. That’s OK. The most important thing is to try it, work at it a little; there are plenty of extra teachers available to you in the bars, the shops and the square – all free of charge and all willing to help!

When we first arrived in Loreto we didn’t really know anybody. Soon we recognised a few faces and we said “hello” but we didn’t have many meaningful conversations. Once we could put together a few sentences and lost some of our inhibitions a strange thing happened – we started talking in Italian. Once we could have good dialogues we found we were getting to know people better. People were patient and helped us when we had difficulties saying what we wanted to say. They started telling us about places to visit, festivals to look out for, wine to try, food to eat… the list is endless. Yes we certainly made an effort, but it couldn’t possibly have worked out as well as it did if the Loretese were not patient and encouraging.

The second piece of advice I’d give is simple, be open. You’re in a town where everybody (certainly everybody I’ve met) is friendly and curious and if you are willing to invest the time telling people who you are, where you’re from and why you’re in Loreto, before you know it you’ll be sharing jokes and coffee with new friends.

It wasn’t very long after I first arrived in Loreto that I quickly made friends with people who have an interest in photography like I do.  Soon after that I was invited by Lino to a beautiful small church that was being restored and I had the opportunity to take some great photographs there. A few days later Rita kindly gave Paula a lesson in how to make really good pasta. And just a few months ago as I was getting ready to head back to Dublin I was spotted in the square by Gianfranco and brought to a spectacular field of sunflowers and a chance to take some more super photographs. These opportunities only came our way because of the generosity of friends who had become aware of our interests.

The third piece of advice is you should learn the language of food. I think almost half of the conversations I’ve had in Loreto have been about food. In Ireland we talk about the weather quite a lot but I don’t think I’ve ever been to a town where lunch and dinner were such a major event. What are you having for lunch? Have you tried bread, with oil and salt? Oil from Loreto of course! You must try arrosticini? Do you like pasta – have you had chitarra, mugnaia? You must try bucatini alla trescatora.

If you can speak a little Italian, if you are ready to make friends and if you embrace the passion for food, I think you’ll be much closer to connecting with the people of Loreto.

Sometimes when I’m sitting outside a bar having a coffee I just listen to the voices around me. Usually I hear Italian, maybe a little French, now and then some English and perhaps some German. Loreto attracts people from all over Europe, The United States, Canada and as far away as Australia. It’s a true cosmopolitan town. It acts like a magnet pulling people towards it and giving them the chance to experience something special.

For those stranieri willing to make an effort, Loreto is very special indeed.