The meeting was with Gaetano of Vestina News and the obsession was the word Vestina.

I first met Gaetano during the summer as I tried to find the best vantage point to take photographs of the San Zopito festival in Loreto Aprutino. The town was thronged and I was trying to get an unobstructed shot of the ox and the “angel” as they progressed through the narrow streets.

Gaetano was filming for Vestina News, attempting to get the best shots he could for the 30 minute short movies he regularly makes for television. I managed to get a great position and rattled off some photos. He was close by in an equally good position and was filming with enthusiasm. We got talking, he gave me his card and I thought nothing more about it.

A few days later P and I were on our way to visit Tenuta Arabona as part of the Cantine Aperte weekend. We decided to go a little outside our usual comfort zone and picked Tenuta Arabona in Manoppello Scalo (PE) and Cantina Zaccagnini in Bolognano (PE) as our cantine of choice. A journey through the Abruzzo countryside on a summer’s afternoon with the prospect of tasting some nice wine – no great hardship really.

We arrived at Tenuta Arabona on time, but too early! There were some teething problems and they asked us to be patient and the tour would start in fifteen minutes. Fifteen minutes became half an hour but we didn’t really mind, we were made feel welcome and we were happy to sit calmly and relax. The tour was great and the wines we tasted and bought were fantastic. They were very proud of the fact that Arabona wines are sulphite free.

Before all that as we were waiting a car pulled up and out popped Gaetano and Antonio of Vestina News. They were doing a piece on Tenuta Arabona for television. We got talking again about Loreto Aprutino, San Zopito, wine and photography. During the conversation I asked about the name of his company and significance of the word Vestina.

He explained to me that as Loreto Aprutino was in the ancient lands of the Vestini tribe and since many of the places he films are within that region it made sense to use Vestina News as the name of the company.

He listed towns that would be considered to be part of the land of the Vestini: Montesilvano, Città Sant’Angelo, Loreto Aprutino, Penne, Farindola and Montebello di Bertona. But when I asked where the region began and where it ended he either wasn’t sure or more likely my Italian wasn’t up to his answer.

That’s where my small obsession started. I wanted to find out where the lands of the Vestini were. I call it a small obsession, but that isn’t really fair. It’s not that I’ve spent every day searching for information on Vestina to the neglect of all other things. All I did was leave Gaetano’s card near my computer so that whenever I had a free moment it would encourage me to search for the Vestini.

The internet, books and brochures all seemed to confirm the same things. The Vestini lived in a region north of the Pescara River stretching west to the Gran Sasso. There are references to the tribe by Strabo (63/64 BC – ca. AD 24), Ptolomy (c. AD 90 – c. AD 168) and Pliny the Elder (23 AD – August 25, 79). Their neighbours on the other side of the river were the Marrucini and to the north there were the Petruzii.

The symbol of Abruzzo, the Warrior of Capestrano, is thought to represent a leader of the Vestini according to few references I’ve found.

One piece of information was missing – how far north could you go and still be in Vestina? Did it end as you left the province of Pescara or did it include parts of Teramo? Then this week I had a breakthrough. I noticed a reference that indicated the Petruzii tribe occupied the region between the Tronto and Vomano Rivers which implies Vestina stretches into Teramo as far as the Vomano. Following the Adriatic that takes them past Pineto and close to Roseto degli Abruzzi.

If I’m right the Vestini occupied the territory roughly outlined in the map below (click to enlarge the image).

If anybody has more information on Vestina I’d love to hear it. I do realise that I may not have the region mapped out completely correctly so all help would be gratefully received. I suspect it goes further west than I’ve marked.

Let’s go back to Vestina News, where all this began.

Gaetano and Antonio have an archive of around 200 documentaries on various aspects of Abruzzo. They’re in Italian, but that might suit you. The latest video on their site is Pian’Olio 2010 from Pianella. If you go to their archives you can see documentaries on religious festivals, food festivals, Abruzzo traditions, places of note and much, much more. Their first video was a visit to the Cantina Talamonte in 2007. If you have an interest in the part of Abruzzo that could be considered Vestina, the chances are they’ve created a documentary for you.

That’s it, my itch is feeling suitably scratched.

Post from: About Abruzzo

In pursuit of Vestina, the ancient land of the Vestini of Abruzzo

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This video was posted on the YouTube channel of the The International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies on 28 September 2010.

Through a series of inter-related stories the video highlights the challenges faced by the communities of Onna and San Gregorio in restoring their lives, showing both the achievements and the limitations of the shelter response.

This version is slightly different from the one posted on the Italian Red Cross site entitled La ricostruzione dell’anima as it has English subtitles.

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Abruzzo Earthquake and The Italian Red Cross

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Atri is blessed with the magnificent Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta containing the frescoes of Andrea de Litio, the panoramic views of the Adriatic and the surrounding countryside and the calanchi. Add to that plenty of places to stop and have un cafè or un gelato, the market every Monday and a perfect location that puts the sea and the mountains in easy reach – Atri is well worth repeat visits.

We were back again in August and we were treated to a particularly special visit. P and I were being shown around Atri by friend of ours who lives in Dublin but is originally from Atri. M was back visiting his family and friends and very kindly took time to meet us and show us around.

I’ve visited and written about Atri before. When we have friends or family with us who are new to Abruzzo, visiting Atri is always high up on the list of things to do. But this time we were on our own, being shown around by an expert who was able to share with us his local knowledge.

If there was one unfortunate element to our visit it was that the day was overcast and visibility wasn’t that good. That meant that the stunning views you can often get from Atri would have to wait for another day.

But that didn’t stop us from seeing the calanchi. These are erosion furrows that are typical of the area. Here comes a bit of geology – they are caused by a combination of rainfall, the softness of the clay and the odd landslide. I took a picture of a house on a ridge outside Atri with the characteristic calanchi falling away below. It looked a bit precarious to me.

M told us about the ancient names of the town (Adria, Atria, Hadria, or Hatria) and the close connection between these ancient names and the Adriatic. Although it’s very possible that the Adriatic got its name from Atri there is a debate. The town Adria, in Veneto also claims this distinction. But I bet the honour should go to Atri.

As we wandered around the town visiting the 14^th century Acquaviva Palace, the 12^th century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta with its many frescoes, M told us about some of the specialities of Atri.

Pan Ducale comes from a recipe dating back to 1352 based on eggs, sugar, flour and almonds. It has a few variations and my sweet tooth gets drawn to the Pan Ducale Prestige as it is filled with chocolate cream and a cocktail of liquors.

The other foodie product from Atri is liquorice. Now I’m not really a fan of liquorice but I really liked what I tasted in Atri. Perhaps I’ve only ever tasted a poor imitation before. I also tried a liquor based on liquorice and I really liked it. I came across a reference to the calanchi also being called Concio della Liquirizia referring to them as being a source of the liquorice plant.

Moving back into history we discovered that the family of Emperor Hadrian (Publius Aelius Hadrianus AD 76 – 138) came from Atri. This is the Emperor who ordered that a wall be built in Northern England back in AD 122 to protect Roman territory from its unruly neighbours.

M had one more surprise for us. We were invited to his parent’s home in Atri for lunch. This was a real treat. I always feel it’s an honour to be invited into anyone’s home for a meal and I was thrilled at the prospect of tasting traditional foods from the Teramo province.

We met M’s, mother, father and brother and had a wonderful lunch. A mixture of Italian and English was spoken at the table as we enjoyed several dishes based on local produce. Everything was fantastic but I think the highlight was a type of vegetarian lasagne that I think was called either a timballo or timpano, but I may have got that wrong.

Getting to know the M’s family was a wonderful experience. As we chatted we discovered that apart from being an excellent cook, his mother is a teacher, who in her spare time is also an artist who paints and has published a book of poetry. That’s impressive.

About a week later two friends of ours from Switzerland were visiting Atri and I tagged along. As we explored the town I was able to impress them with all the information I had picked up the previous week. Grazie M.

Just to show you how good those views from Atri can be, here you can see some photos I took on a relatively clear day in June 2009.

Post from: About Abruzzo

I Just Can’t Stay Away from Atri

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Video Trailer: Seven Aspects Of Abruzzo (Le Sette Vie D’Abruzzo)

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It gives me an insight into so many aspects of Italian life. It covers a wide rage of topics including food, music, culture, current affairs, politics… – the list goes on. Alex isn’t afraid to comment some of the darker aspects of Italian life which is refreshing as Italy, wonderful as it is, certainly isn’t perfect.

Abruzzo sometimes gets his attention, and in his recent post Following Earthquakes in Italy he’s put together some links on earthquake information that I think will be really useful for all those who have connections with Italy and/or spend time there.

He is spot-on when he writes “Italy is a seismically active country, as the destructive 6.3 magnitude earthquake in April 2009 in the Abruzzo region clearly demonstrated.” But he puts it in context when he says “Highly destructive earthquakes are rare in Italy, but more importantly, construction technology means that properly constructed buildings can resist all but the most powerful of earthquakes”.

For Italians everywhere, for anybody who has property in Italy, for anybody who plans on moving to Italy and for anybody who has friends or family in Italy, Alex Roe’s post on where and how you can get accurate information about the magnitude and location of an earthquake is well worth reading.

I’ve started subscribing to the National Earthquake Centre’s Recent Earthquakes in Italy RSS feed. If RSS isn’t your preferred subscription method you can go to the website or you can follow updates on Facebook or Twitter.

See Following Earthquakes in Italy by Alex Roe for all links.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Earthquakes in Italy

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We’re still in August and with the temperatures touching 30 degrees, a trip to the beach is never too far from the minds of the Abruzzese. If they are lucky enough to live close by, they can walk or cycle, but judging by the availability of parking spaces, most people drive.

Pineto, Pescara and Francavilla al Mare are the three sandy beaches where I’ve spent most time. Readers of this blog will know that I think Pineto is one of the nicest beaches in Abruzzo. The first time I arrived there I saw a sea of umbrellas and thought it was full of people. I was wrong, there was plenty of space and I had no difficulty finding a place to relax before plunging into the Adriatic.

By contrast, the first time I arrived at the Marina di San Vito all thoughts of a relaxing day by the sea disappeared as I scrambled along the pebbles and nearby headlands  to take photographs of the tracbocchi (wooden fishing platforms).

Depending on where you base yourself taking a stroll beside the sea, along the promenade or on the pier is a must. Stop every now and then to admire the skill of expert fishermen as they pass their knowledge on to their apprentices. If the sea breeze does not cool you down then there are plenty of places to get refreshment.

Abruzzo has 133km of beaches, inlets and cliffs, so it’s not surprising that the Adtriatic is an important part of daily life for many Abruzzese. I’ve passed through many seaside towns and stopped and spent time in Pineto, Silvi, Cittá Sant’Angelo, Montesilvano, Pescara, Francavilla al Mare, Ortona, San Vito Chietino and Vasto. They are all wonderful places and each has a character of its own.

So what are you waiting for? Break out those bagnos and vai al mare!

Post from: About Abruzzo

The Sea (Il Mare)

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• The Santa Maria Assunta cathedral which dominates the town’s historic centre
• The frescoes contained inside the cathedral
• The erosion furrows surrounding the town
• The views of the Adriatic Sea, and the peaks of the Majella and Gran Sasso
• And if you’re up for it, the walk/cycle from Atri to Cittá Sant’Angelo

Atri is a fascinating, ancient town that historians believe gave its name to the Adriatic Sea. It sits on a hill between two valleys and is about 10km from the coast and 30km from Pescara. If you decide to visit, try to do so on a clear day, the views are spectacular.

Monday is market day, which has advantages and disadvantages. The obvious advantage is the town is hopping. People are in from the surrounding areas exploring the stalls, buying their weekly shopping and greeting friends and neighbours. But it is hard to find parking, and since it is a Monday, the restaurants are often closed.

If you are adventurous, there is a walking route from Atri to Cittá Sant’Angelo, described in the pamphlet “Abruzzo: The Guide To Its Unknown Wonders” which is available in tourist offices. Be warned though, one reviewer said that the maps and instructions in the pamphlet are not easy to decipher. Of course you could always drive there, about 15km, 30mins – less strenuous, but maybe not as much fun.

Finally, in two days time, from the 18th to 21st June there is the Atri Festival of Reportage, along with exhibitions running from 18th June to 18th August. A quote from the website says “The subject of reportage is discussed, studied and illustrated in all forms: from photography to radio and print media to video. An all round approach is adopted to focus on the reporter’s profession in an unusual and absorbing way by contrasting different international situations”.

The details of the exhibitions associated with the festival are available here. Regular readers of this blog will realise I have an interest in photography and I have to say I’m really looking forward to seeing the work on display.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Atri

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I was lucky enough to spend a weekend in L’Aquila last year.  I thought it was beautiful city.  I find it hard to look at the television coverage showing the city as it is now.

I tried to make contact with my friends in Abruzzo by initially phoning their land-lines.  All numbers were engaged.  It dawned on me that phone lines could be down.  My initial anxiety did not last long as mobiles were working and I was soon able to have conversations and to learn that everyone I knew was well.  They were all shaken, but were relieved to have got through the night.

I cannot imagine it.  I think of numbers and try to understand it; 50,000 homeless reported initially, now reduced to 17,000, 26 people reported dead yesterday, now the figure is 170, at least 30 from one village of 250 people.

It will be days before a true picture of the full extent of the disaster will be known.  But the numbers do not tell the whole story.  L’Aquila and its surrounding area has been severely hit.  Men, women, husbands, wives, fathers, mothers, sons and daughters have lost their lives. Many more have been injured and have lost their homes. I just cannot imagine it.

By this morning, Tuesday, I had been in touch with everyone I knew, either by phone or by email.  I am relieved that nobody I know has been directly affected by the earthquake. But my heart goes out to those that have.

In all my visits to the region I have found that the Abruzzese live up to their motto of “Forte e Gentile”,  Strong and Neighbourly.  The events of Monday night will be a test of their resolve, but I hope with time and help, they will pull through.

If you wish to contribute to funds to help the victims of the earthquake I have found the following references:

A post from the blog Opera Chic gives details of a fund setup by two of Italy’s newspaers, Corriere della Sera and Gazzetta dello Sport,  click here for the post

A post from the blog bleeding espresso gives details of the  National Italian American Foundation (NIAF) relief fund and also the Italian Red Cross (Croce Rossa Italiana), click here for the post.

Post from: About Abruzzo

The Earthquake in Abruzzo

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But don’t let that put you off.  For about €5 you’ll get a beautifully produced magazine  that is full of articles and pictures covering many “hidden” gems.  They’re a great souvenir of what is, without doubt, a fabulous region of Italy.  Have a read of what Paolo de Sienna says is the reason for publishing Tesori D’Abruzzo.

Even if you do not speak Italian you’ll get a feel for the region through excellent photography.  With a dictionary to hand and a map, you can easily discover places of interest that may not get the attention they deserve in the usual tourist brochures.  Of course if you read Italian at all you’re in for a treat.  But for students of the Italian language, these magazines offer a great way of learning more about Abruzzo and improving your vocabulary at the same time.

All of this for around €5 can’t be bad.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Scenes From A Magazine.

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Within easy reach are the town of Santo Stefano di Sessanio and the ruin of one of Europe’s highest fortresses, Rocca Calascio.  Both impressive in their own right.

Campo Imperatore has been popular with filmmakers, most notably as a backdrop for the mountain scenes in Spaghetti Westerns.  It was also a location for The Name of The Rose and Ladyhawk.

The plateau’s altitude ranges from 1500 to 1900 meters. It covers an expanse of approximately 80 km². It has one of Italy’s oldest alpine ski resorts. Located on the plateau’s western edge, the resort began commercial operation in the 1920s and continues to thrive as a ski resort to this day due to its proximity to Rome (132 km or an hour-and-a-half by car).  On the eastern side of the plateau is a 4 km cross country ski trail, which is maintained by the nearby town of Castel del Monte.

The resort became Benito Mussolini’s prison in August 1943 with his fall from power until he was freed by German commandos in September 1943.

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Campo Imperatore

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