Up to now most of the “live” Italian I’ve been listening to in Dublin has come from internet radio. Although I don’t understand everything that’s said, far from it in fact, I find the commentary and songs keep the sound and rhythm of the language in my ear.

The high proportion of slow songs in Italian on Radio Italia (I think they only play Italian songs) is a great help. We have an internet radio in the kitchen and listening to Italy’s finest singing passionately about life and love is as good a way as any to do the washing up.

In his How To Learn Italian – Tip Number Three Alex Roe of Italy Chronicles rightly points out the benefits of watching television to help with learning the language.

I know he’s right, but up to now I’ve not really looked at Italian TV options.

But over the weekend I found something interesting.

I discovered TV Sei.

This is the first TV station I’ve come across that is current and dedicated to the Abruzzo region.

They also have a live feed, TvSei in diretta, and so far it looks as though they don’t mind that I’m watching it from outside of Italy.

The only gripe I have is that the full screen toggle does not appear to work on my laptop browsers (IE9 and Chrome) but it seems happy enough on my Android phone. Heigh-ho!

I’m sure there are other options, and if you know of them please leave a comment, but as I’ve said this is the first “live” channel I’ve found that’s easily available outside of Italy and is dedicated to the Abruzzo region.

Enjoy.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Abruzzo Television Online with TV Sei

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• know their subject
• understand their audience
• know when to wait
• know when to push on
• watch out for danger
• have an eye for the unusual
• are enthusiastic
• are relaxed
• have the inside scoop
• seize the moment
• don’t use umbrellas
• can adjust their schedule
• have local knowledge

So imagine my joy when I met a guide that had all these qualities and more.

Our meeting was accidental. I think my camera was spotted and perhaps I displayed a certain hesitation on which way was the right way to go.

However I was marked as a tourist in the end didn’t matter.

After our initial introductions we struck a deal and I was shown around the old town, nipping in and out of side streets as only a local would.

When it looked as though I was flagging I was shown a few simple exercises to ease any discomfort I might be feeling, and then off we went again.

Never pushy, always encouraging, I was taken on routes rarely seen by most tourists.

Although we didn’t speak the same language we were able to understand each other, sometimes with gestures (very Italian) sometimes with facial expressions and sometimes, rarely, my guide barked an instruction.

At one point, before I even knew what was happening, an unsavoury looking character was sent on his way. I’d no idea I should be concerned until it was all under control. Perhaps a crisis was only averted by a whisker – I’ll never know for sure.

For the most part I was allowed discover the local treasures on my own. But when necessary he’d stop and stare at important objects I shouldn’t ignore. He had a good eye and clearly loved his home town.

In the end I did catch him trying to stifle a yawn, it had been a long day and out of politeness I made no comment. I don’t think boredom was the reason, more likely the previous night had been a bit rough!

P.S. If you’re interested in T-shirts I’ve a little competition running. Comments containing the answer to a not very tough question are required before 1st May on the post About Abruzzo San Zopito T-Shirt Competition.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Feeling Very Lucky to Have Such an Excellent Guide

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That’s the end of the introduction, now the information.

Travel and Tourism

Abruzzo information brochures from Abruzzoturismo are available in Italian, English, German and French covering many aspects of Abruzzo including the sea, the mountains, food and wine, culture, skiing and other active holidays.

I’ve tweeted about this already this week but since not everybody who reads this blog uses Twitter I felt it deserved a mention in a post.

Events

How do you find out what’s happening in Abruzzo? Imagine you’re trying to decide where to stay or you’ve already picked your destination and you want to know what’s on nearby. This site can help you find out what you need to know.

AbruzzoInformation

If you follow the link to Events, Festivals and Exhibitions you can search by keyword (e.g. place name) or event type. It even has an RSS feed if you just want regular updates.

While I’m on the subject of events, an old favourite of mine is the EventieSagre site that does pretty much the same thing for all of Italy. You can filter it down to cover just the Abruzzo region. Although there is often overlap with the AbruzzoInformation site, sometimes an event appears on one but not the other.

This site also provides an RSS feed to help you keep on top of events, just pick the region you’re interested in. (Hint: Abruzzo)

Themed Holidays

Before I list these Abruzzo holidays with a difference let me say that I’ve not tried any of them. I know about them by either receiving information from the people who organise the holiday or I’ve just found them by accident.

Since I haven’t tried them, I can’t pass any comment on what the holiday experience is like. All I can say is that they all appeal to me; they all pass the “hey, that sounds like fun” test. Maybe they’ll appeal to you too.

Singing in Abruzzo, described as a week of songs, laughter, walks in the mountains, great food and the occasional late night soiree with the wolves. What could be more uplifting than choral singing as part of a group in the Abruzzo hills?

With Italy, in Other Words, you can take the writing route by joining fellow travellers for a week-long literary retreat in a remote mountain village where you can read and discuss works of 20th-century writer Ignazio Silone while sampling local wine and great food. They also run classes in creative writing – Abruzzo could be your inspiration.

The Shanticentre in the Teramo province of Abruzzo offers Yoga holidays and activities though out the year. Depending on the time of year the holiday includes use of the pool, hot tub and sauna; yoga classes on the beach; meditation and relaxation overlooking the beautiful scenery of Abruzzo – sounds like a great way to revitalise and unwind.

That’s the list so far. If I come across any more that pass the very scientific “hey, that sounds like fun” test I’ll let you know.

On a completely different note the Abruzzo 2011 Calendar with all profits going to charity is now available for a limited time only.

Click here to preview the calendar, find out more and order your copy.

One satisfied customer said…

It’ll look great in the office when I come back to work and have to face the grim January days. Dead Cool!

I couldn’t agree more, but then I’m a little biased.

Post from: About Abruzzo

An Abruzzo Miscellany – Information, Events, and Themed Holidays

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There’s a regular bus service from Pescara and Chieti, so if you are without a car, or just don’t fancy driving, it’s a town that’s not too difficult to get to.

But we were there for another reason. Caramanico Terme is a great base for walks exploring the deep gorge of the Valle dell’Orfento. The starting point for the walk was the Riserva Naturale Valle dell’Orfento which is no more than 5 minutes outside the town. We gathered in the car park. When I say “we” there were a lot of us. About 15 I think. Six adults (I’m counting myself in that category) and about 10 kids. Some we knew already and some were friends of friends who in true Abruzzese tradition, soon became our friends.

The plan was to walk from the car park, gradually descending to the floor of the Orfento river valley, crossing the river by wooden foot bridge, and taking the other bank back through the gorge crossing a series of wooden bridges  and finally climbing back up to a modern concrete and metal bridge just outside the town. We were with at least two people who knew the route well and were familiar with the territory.

There were really only two little hitches on the journey. The first was meeting a large scout group, about 50 happy troupers, when we reached the valley floor. They were going the same way as us and that can be a problem as the paths are narrow and overtaking can be difficult. Our solution was to have our picnic a little earlier than planned and let them go on their merry way. We did meet them again, but it was beside a wide river bank and this time we got by with ease.

The other small problem was the finish – if you go down into the valley at some point you have to climb back up again. The descent was gradual at the start of the walk but the final ascent was steep and challenged the fittest among us. It’s mostly on wooden steps, but those steps seem to go on for a long, long time.

As usual I had my camera and took some photos on the journey. This is definitely one of those occasions where the camera doesn’t do the day justice. You can certainly get a feel for the walk, the changing light as we went down to the river bed, the river sometimes calm and sometimes gushing – but I can’t show you the smells that changed from those of a dry summer to a damp wood, I can’t show you the temperature changes as we moved from the summer sun into deep shadows and I can’t show you how good the clear cold rushing water tasted when we first reached the valley floor. All of these feelings have to be experienced, my photographs won’t help.

We stopped many times to watch butterflies with fabulous wing patterns, to examine wild flowers and to take a peek at the dens of small animals that live by the Orfento. You could do this walk for the exercise and the feeling of accomplishment that gives,  but taking your time and enjoying the surroundings is an opportunity not to be missed.

When we got back to Caramonica Terme we were completely out of water. The last climb was tough and since it took a lot of effort and the sun seemed to be getting warmer every minute, we went through all our supplies. (I know – we’re not dealing with the extremes of nature here but it did feel tough, honest.) My final photo is of a relatively ordinary street fountain in the town. I can’t tell you how delighted I was to see it. Waiting my turn to gulp down some of the most refreshing water I’d ever tasted was one of the hardest things I did that day.

Once I got my voice back I asked D, our guide, which is the proper way to spell Majella? I’d seen it many times written as Maiella and also Majella. I figured if anyone knew D did as she was from the area and seemed to know a lot about its history and culture. I tended to use Majella as that is how it appears on the official site of the Parco Nazionale della Majella, and she agreed that that was the correct spelling.

As if to show us adults up the younger members of our group then went off to play football! We decided not to go with T to the shop that sells the best prosciutto in the area and instead, sat down outside a café and had a very nice beer. I could have stayed there for the rest of the evening observing the comings and goings of Caramanico Terme, but it was time to head back to base.

One of the photographs from this trip appears in my Abruzzo 2011 Calendar in aid of the Italian Red Cross. Click here to preview the calendar, find out more and order your copy.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Walking Along the Orfento Valley in the Majella

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We, like many travellers these days, weren’t sure if the volcanic ash cloud would allow us to get away but everything worked out fine and our flight left almost on time.

We’ve had a busy few days so far. For the most part it’s been raining cats, dogs and elephants but today we saw sun come out though the clouds and spread a golden glow over the snow capped Majella and Gran Sasso ranges.

Bad weather didn’t stop us making the most of our stay here. It’s always nice to sit outside taking the sun’s rays while having an aperitivo or enjoying il pranzo but they still taste just as good when you’re inside comfortably hearing the falling rain.

So what did we get up to while it’s been a bit wet? Well maybe not so much that warrants a blog post but we’ve enjoyed ourselves all the same.

Almost every morning, raining or not, we’ve headed out for an 8 km walk in the country around Loreto Aprutino. Mostly it’s been raining, and we have gotten odd looks from some of the locals as we squelched our way back to our base.

But the walks have been both great and necessary. The trees are full of birds singing their hearts out, the fields are full of flowers in bloom and around every bend vegetables and fruit trees are showing future promise.

If there is one sound that I’ll take away with me as a memory of these walks it’s got to be the sound of frogs. We pass two tiny lakes on our route and the echo of frogs from them is amazing. It seems to get amplified and directed out of the hollow so that you suddenly hear it as you approach and then, no more than 50 metres later, it’s gone.

Getting out for a walk early in the morning is necessary because otherwise I think I’d return looking like the Michelin Man. Even someone with strong willpower would struggle not to over-indulge as the food on offer here is just wonderful. Add to that the fact that we’ve had three invitations to lunch or dinner since we got here and I think you’ll probably understand why some morning exercise is crucial.

So that leads me on to conversation and food, a perfect match! Since we arrived we’ve eaten out three times; twice in restaurants and once in a friend’s house. Each time the chance to catch-up and talk about what’s been happening has been great. Conversation, food, and a little wine – you don’t need good weather to enjoy time spent that way.

A few trips to shops stock-up, a visit to the local TIM shop to organise internet access and the not-so-local but not too far computer shop to get printer cartridges and we were pretty much sorted for our stay here.

We noticed our wine supply was low so we headed out to the Azienda Marramiero, Rosciano (PE) and bought some red, white and rose. Well what’s life without vino?!

But now that it appears the weather has turned for the better I’m looking forward to some of the highlights of the next couple of weeks.

The Giro d’Italia passes though Abruzzo over the next two days and I hope to see the peloton in full swing somewhere along the coast between Silvi Marina and Pineto on Thursday.

May is full of festivals in Abruzzo and I’m expecting to enjoy every moment of the festival of San Zopito this coming weekend (22, 23, 24 May). The old ox started to find the ceremony a bit too tiring and after many good years of service has been retired. A younger ox will be at the centre of the celebrations this weekend and I expect to see the entire town of Loreto Aprutino out in force cheering him on.

Then the weekend of the 29 and 30 May we have the Cantine Aperte. Forty different wine producers are opening their doors to the public, giving them a chance to see how they make their wines and also giving them a chance to taste some of their best products. Some of these cantine will have food and music organised to help add to the carnival atmosphere.

It’s going to be a fun couple of weeks I think.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Plenty of Rain, Food and Conversation in Abruzzo; But Here Comes The Sun!

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So to not delay any more I thought I’d share a selection of photographs that I took while in Abruzzo.

Is there a common theme to these shots? Well the following is accurate:

• they were all taken in Abruzzo
• they don’t showcase a town or village
• they don’t showcase a particular season
• they don’t showcase a particular festival
• they were taken over a two year period

That makes them a random selection I guess, so here they are…

They probably aren’t prize winners. They didn’t get picked naturally when I wrote about places, events and activities in previous posts. But I like them now that I’ve looked at them in a new light.

So now that it’s 2010 I started thinking about what I’d like to see and do in Abruzzo over the next 12 months. I don’t think I’m going to be able to spend a good length of time there this side of March. But I’m looking forward to it as snow will still be on the mountains and there should also be signs of spring in the air.

I’m hoping to do the usual things, wander around the towns and villages, visit the sea and the mountains and as always sip aperativi and chat with friends.

As for new stuff, if possible I hope to do some or all of the following in 2010:

• Explore Sulmona
• See the wolves at the Wolf Conservation Centre
• Visit The Butterfly Farm near Citta Sant’Angelo
• Get to the Pescara Jazz Festival
• See the procession of the snake charmers at Cocculo
• See the Palio del Pupo in Cappelle Sul Tavo
• Have a meal on a trabocco
• See the saffron crocuses in bloom
• Visit the waterfalls and pools of Gole del Salinello
• See an Abruzzo stage of the Giro d’Italia

It may not seem like a long list, but if I cover most of it in 2010 I’ll be happy.

Before I go, don’t forget that you can buy an Abruzzo 2010 Calendar using 12 of my favourite photographs of the region. It’s for sale through Lulu and all profits will go to the Italian Red Cross. See this post, Abruzzo 2010 Calendar – All Profits To Charity for more details.

Post from: About Abruzzo

2010 Wishlist and some Random Photos of Abruzzo

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• exploring parts of the Majella I hadn’t seen before
• visiting an abbey with an amazing floor
• visiting a basilica with fantastic frescoes
• exploring shepherds’ ancient stone refuges
• taking photos of the elusive Ferrari-red Ape with roll bars! (proof provided below)
• discovering a new restaurant and new Abruzzese dish
• showing some of my favourite places to a visiting friend
• tasting new olive oil
• getting a personal tour of Loreto Aprutino’s Oil Museum
• enjoying an exhibition of paintings from an important Abruzzese artist
• buying more CDs of Abruzzo folk and jazz

And if that wasn’t enough I was stunned as temperatures dropped 15 degrees practically overnight bringing snow and hailstones to a region that was basking in mid-20s sunshine the day before.

Of course too much exploring can be tiring so relaxing with friends over excellent food and wine regularly is crucial.

I had the pleasure of drinking two wines I hadn’t come across before:

The first Villa Gemma Bianco (white) from Masciarlli the same people who bring you Marina Cvetic. This white is made from 80% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – 15% Cococciola – 5% Chardonnay, its colour is pale straw and it has slightly fruity taste (apple perhaps). It costs around €10 in Abruzzo shops and I think it is fabulous.

The second was recommended to me by Octavio in the New Evo restaurant in Loreto Aprutino. It was our last night in the area and we wanted to have something special. Closing the wine list I asked Octavio if he’d recommend something and he suggested a red from the Pasetti Vini. They are based in Francavilla (CH) and the chosen red was from the Pasetti range. This wine is made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzzo grapes grown on the foothills of the Gran Sasso mountains. We wanted something special and were not disappointed.

I’ll give you more details about what I’ve been doing in up-coming posts.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Villa Gemma, Pasetti and that elusive red Ape

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We’re still in August and with the temperatures touching 30 degrees, a trip to the beach is never too far from the minds of the Abruzzese. If they are lucky enough to live close by, they can walk or cycle, but judging by the availability of parking spaces, most people drive.

Pineto, Pescara and Francavilla al Mare are the three sandy beaches where I’ve spent most time. Readers of this blog will know that I think Pineto is one of the nicest beaches in Abruzzo. The first time I arrived there I saw a sea of umbrellas and thought it was full of people. I was wrong, there was plenty of space and I had no difficulty finding a place to relax before plunging into the Adriatic.

By contrast, the first time I arrived at the Marina di San Vito all thoughts of a relaxing day by the sea disappeared as I scrambled along the pebbles and nearby headlands  to take photographs of the tracbocchi (wooden fishing platforms).

Depending on where you base yourself taking a stroll beside the sea, along the promenade or on the pier is a must. Stop every now and then to admire the skill of expert fishermen as they pass their knowledge on to their apprentices. If the sea breeze does not cool you down then there are plenty of places to get refreshment.

Abruzzo has 133km of beaches, inlets and cliffs, so it’s not surprising that the Adtriatic is an important part of daily life for many Abruzzese. I’ve passed through many seaside towns and stopped and spent time in Pineto, Silvi, Cittá Sant’Angelo, Montesilvano, Pescara, Francavilla al Mare, Ortona, San Vito Chietino and Vasto. They are all wonderful places and each has a character of its own.

So what are you waiting for? Break out those bagnos and vai al mare!

Post from: About Abruzzo

The Sea (Il Mare)

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I love market day in Abruzzo. There’s always a buzz of excitement as people weave in and out around the stalls looking for bargains and fresh produce from their favourite dealer. You can get practically anything you want at the markets: vegetables, fruit, meat, pots, pans, clothes, cleaning aids, hats, shoes, irons and pasta boards. My sister-in-law bought a set of curtains that hang in her spare bedroom. I get to see them every time I stay over.

You could probably spend everyday (except perhaps Sunday) at a market in some Abruzzo region as it often occurs on a different day of the week, in different towns. In Atri it’s Monday, in Penne it’s Saturday and in Loreto Aprutino it’s Thursday. These towns are all within easy reach of each other so depending on where you’re based you could easily visit three markets a week. Now that’s a bit too frequent for me but if you are addicted to markets, why not?

Markets are an important part of day to day life in Italy. People come into town from surrounding areas, look around, meet friends and get together for a coffee, a campari or even a glass of prosecco. I prefer when the market stalls are based in a piazza instead of the main streets. In a piazza, if you position yourself outside a bar or cafe you can get a great view of one of the most important social and commercial events in Italian life.

Some towns have an annual market as part of a festival. This is like a standard market on steroids, taking over the whole town, with a marching band thrown in for that special Fellini moment. Last week, on 2nd August, I was in Pineto for their annual August Festival. I think it was the biggest market I’ve ever seen. The entire centre of the town was closed off and people were selling practically everything you could think of. I even saw native American wo0d carvings!

The one item you can be certain you’ll find at an Abruzzo market is the porchetta van. Slow roasted pork on a spit is a treat not to be missed. If you’re feeling peckish porchetta and some bread will definitely hold back the hunger.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Market Day (giorno di mercato)

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If you’re from northern Europe and especially if you’re from the UK or Ireland you’re possibly feeling a little sun-deprived at the moment. Here in Abruzzo, however, the skies are mainly clear except for a big yellow ball. There is one drawback. It’s very hot. At about 35 C and above it’s a bit too hot for me. The “cooling down” is practiced as often as I can. The Loretese have assured me that it’s a bit hot for them also, but they are working and I’m really just having a holiday!

I don’t like being completely sedentary though. I like to get out of Loreto and go walking whenever possible. But it’s a bit hard in the heat so getting up early and heading off in the relative cool of the morning is the best time to do it. It’s still hot, but much more bearable, usually no more than 25C.

But the walks are really worth it. The countryside around Loreto is just fantastic. Olive trees line most of the paths and there are plum and peach trees within easy reach also. There are two walks I’ve found that are just the perfect length, about an hour, with the right amount of ups and downs to make them interesting. One goes by the church of the Madonna Delle Grazie and the other begins by heading to the church of the Madonna Degli Angeli.

Apart from the obvious benefit of getting some exercise they also provide a chance to be part of some stunning scenery. You’re bound to see and hear the wildlife as you make your way along the paths and trails used primarily by local farmers.

Post from: About Abruzzo

A walk in the country, near Loreto Aprutino

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