On Sunday August 15th, Ferragosto, we had a dilemma. Travel to Cappelle Sul Tavo (PE) for the Palio Delle Pupe or stay in Loreto Aprutino and walk up to the church of Santa Maria in Piano (also known as San Rocco) and enjoy the Festa dell’Assunta e di San Rocco.
The Palio Delle Pupe in Cappelle Sul Tavo is definitely more spectacular. Fifteen districts compete in an event involving a procession of the dolls (le pupe) representing each area, followed by each doll dancing and exploding into a unique firework display.
Our plan on this trip to Abruzzo definitely included going to the Palio.
But as a result of a few decisions we made and a few invitations we received we decided to skip the Cappelle Sul Tavo event in favour of the festa in Loreto Aprutino.
One of the invitations that could’ve swayed us to go to Cappelle Sul Tavo came from A & S who were travelling to the Palio from close to Civitella Casanova. They were passing near Loreto Aprutino and offered to pick us up and take us with them. It was a very tempting offer and we gave it plenty of thought before declining.
I think the main reasons we decided to go to Festa dell’Assunta e di San Rocco was there was going to be one doll dancing and exploding with fireworks, so we’d get a feel for the Palio even if it was a reduced set, also several friends from Loreto Aprutino said that their festa was small but good, including a band (I’m a sucker for a band) and dancing.
Our friends that went to the Palio Delle Pupe had a great time and enjoyed some spectacular displays. They also saw some locals letting their hair down and becoming more passionate than is usual at an Abruzzo festa. That said, whenever things seemed to get a little out of hand the police were there to calm the situation without resorting to taking anyone away. This softly-softly approach was very appropriate to the inherent joy of the event.
But we didn’t see any of that. We arrived outside the church of Santa Maria in Piano at about 21:35. The band that was due to start at 21:30 was already in full swing with locals already waltzing around the car park turned dance floor.
We arrived starving. We knew we could get something to eat at the festa and decided to skip dinner in favour of whatever was available. So on arrival my primary focus was to get two porchetta panini and a couple of bottles of beer. We found a spot to sit down a little away from the dance floor but in the company of friends we’d run into when we arrived.
The pupa or doll wasn’t due to make an appearance until 23:30 so after scoffing the porchetta and quaffing baffo d’oro we wandered around taking in the atmosphere.
I took a few photos of Loreto Aprutino at night, and of the band and the locals enjoying the music. From the north side of the church you could see the fireworks display of the dolls in Cappelle Sul Tavo a few kilometres away.
The band played traditional music, waltzes, mazurcas and plenty more styles that I can’t remember. A cynic might look at the musicians, think old time ballroom dances and scoff, but they certainly knew how to play and knew what their audience wanted to hear. Everybody went away more than satisfied.
It didn’t seem to take too long for our pupa to make an appearance. I tried to get a good position so I could take photographs but barriers were erected and everyone had to stay behind them. The vigile who gently encouraged us to move to a safer position told us it was for our own safety as the fireworks are dangerous. Well nobody got hurt and everybody was impressed by the display so I think he knew what he was talking about.
From some of the images you can see the jeans of the very brave dancer who controls the doll as it moves in time to the music while firing rockets and missiles into the night sky. Not a job I’d volunteer for.
In Italian the word for doll is pupa. But I couldn’t help thinking of the English word pupa that is often used to describe an insect’s early life before it transforms into a more spectacular adult stage. Perhaps we’re not taking butterflies here but the fairly innocuous doll becomes a thing of significant and short-lived beauty after being transformed by the dancer and the fireworks.
After a year’s hibernation, it’ll all happen again next year.
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